Paddled out at Pipe before six with Blake and Jerry. Dumb move--the half moon behind a cloudy sky made it impossible to find the lineup in the head-high surf.

As the morning lit up, the surf rose to greet us. Soon, we found ourselves in some serious conditions with some waves pushing six feet (the radio called it 5-7').

Jerry and Blake charged despite not being used to the conditions. I thought Blake was going to die taking off on a six foot Pipe bomb, but he pulled back at the last minute.

We all scored some good peaks before the crowd choked us out. Decided to finish our session at Ehukai.

Same story there--started off slowly, but surf got pretty good in front of the lifeguard tower. Caught some four footers to the beach, but it was really anticlimactic, coming from Pipe/Backdoor.

My wave of the day was back at Backdoor, where I shoved my bodyboard down a five foot peak that tapered quickly over the reef. Still exhilirating.

Good session overall, but nothing profound to say about it.

Aloha from Paradise,
sponge

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