HI Surf Advisory
SURF OBSERVATIONS
Sorry I haven't been posting my surf sessions. Family and career takes priority (surfing is a close number 3). Here's what happened in my life, for anyone who is interested:
June 22: Bodyboarded an unremarkable session at Diamond Head Cliffs. It was windy, crowded, and junk. But, hey! The worst day surfing is better than the best day at work.
June 23: Dawned it again with my friend Bruce (Lee) to a spot west of Suicides (don't know the name). Being right behind Diamond Head, this spot was more sheltered than Cliffs, which made for glassier, though smaller waves. Bruce had his mini-tank and I used my fun board, and we had a great session with only a couple of other guys out. Waves were about waist to chest high, with long, mushy lefts and short, wedgy rights. Saw another perfect rainbow--lucky live Hawaii.
June 29-30: Didn't surf at all. I competed in the Hoop It Up basketball tourney in the parking lots near Ward Warehouse. Good experience, but I suck in b-ball. We went 2 and 2. Heard the surf was up slightly over the weekend, with some four footers pushing into Diamond Head and Sandys. Kinda windy, though.
July 4-7: Visited my family on Kauai. No surfing--no waves anyway.
July 14: The day before my business trip to San Diego, I go for one final session. Hadn't touched the water in three weeks! Jonesing, big time.
Met a different friend, I'll call him CJ, and his friend BK. We paddled out at Cliffs at 0600 on our bodyboards--they had two boards which I sold to CJ. They both are novices, just getting into the sport. It's nice to watch their pure (and unjaded) enthusiasm.
Surf was a shoulder-high wind-swell, with a slight south trying to come in. It was crowded, but we managed to snag some sets. Choppiness made the rides bouncy, but still long.
After an extra long lull, I found a baseball cap floating in the water ("Drug Free Hawaii"). Must be some kind of omen, so I put it on. Well, nothing happened.
I had a half hour to go before I had to perform my familial duties, so I dragged CJ and BK to Lighthouses, in search of a better peak. Rule number 1 is not to chase peaks; let the waves come to you. Well, wouldn't you know--it was firing!
There was an acute easterly flow to the swell, making the rights wedge and open up. Surfers were sitting further out than I had ever seen. CJ went left on one wave, and we didn't see him for over five minutes--caught inside!
I got some good waves, stalling in the hook, and even managing a rollo--all this with that silly hat still on my head. The surfers must've thought I was a punk, but the hat seemed to have finally brought some good luck.
The time quickly came to leave. I let CJ borrow my new board to see if he liked it (a square tail channel Custom X bodyboard). I think it was love at first feel, after trying it out.
Anyway, I was showering off, when I decided to pass on the good luck that the hat gave me. As I was putting my board down, I felt this sharp pain. Kneeling down, I found a stinger in my toe--must've stepped on a bee or wasp.
So much for good luck or karma. I guess it don't work that way. Still, it was nice feeling the warm Hawaiian waters again. I was temporarily satisfied; I was now ready to leave the islands.
Aloha from Paradise,
sponge
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