It was waist high (if that), choppy, and cold, with air and water temps at about 40 degrees.
Had an ice cream headache, numb appendages, and constricted cojones. But it was still fun and exhilirating--it always is.
Travelling is good to put your life situation in perspective. You learn to appreciate what you get and what you have. The saying, "Lucky you live Hawaii," buzzed in my still-attached ear.
Since then, Virginia has been blanketed by several inches of snow, sleet and freezing rain. I thought the Blizzard of '96 was over.
Tried to go bodyboarding again today (2/4). When I got there, it was maybe shoulder to head, choppy, and no one out. I promised my wife I wouldn't surf alone, so I just drooled on the frozen beach.
Plan two also failed when I found out Mount Trashmore, the local snowbank, was closed due to overcrowding and injuries. Had to settle for making snow angels in the hotel parking lot.
The North Shore is prepping for another twenty foot swell. It's been a good winter for Hawaii.
In the meantime, I'll try for more ice cream.
Aloha from the Right Coast (paradise is where you find it),
Neal "sponge" Miyake