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Date: June 2, 2007 Words: Drove out a little late (especially with a full moon adding some lumens), but was still the first one in the water at the Beach Park. Drove my fish for a while, catching a few fun ones, wiping out on a few too. Best wave was pretty funny. Both hands slipped as I tried standing up. Ended up with my knees on the board and my ass sitting back on the tail. The back weight stalled me into a no-hand kneelo veranda which I easily exited dry. Maybe I should do that more often. Later on, I returned to shoot from the water. The late season is always nice--laid back, no egos, apologies for drop-ins. Slightly inconsistent, but when they came it was pretty darned good. The lighting was pretty trippy as the sun rose from above COMSAT hill instead off right up from Pipe. Had some major backlighting shooting at Backdoor, but such is life. Wind was pretty dead until around eight or so. Had to conserve my battery throughout my session, so I missed a few potentially decent shots. Oh well. While I was treading water, I was noticing that my brand new swim shorts (from a Roxy/Quik sample sale) was feeling kinda billowy, catching water like an underwater sail at times. Mental note never to wear surf shorts to shoot, especially ones that chafe. As I was exiting the water, I realized why I was getting such freaky sensations. The seam of the shorts split right down the middle, exposing my entire butt and a bit of the crotch. Damn! I took the discreet route to the showers, bunching up the fabric behind my butt and carrying my fins in front. One local bruddah turned to me in the park and said, "What, gotta grab ass?" "Yup," I sheeply replied. I guess grab ass has more than one meaning. Aloha from Paradise,
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SURF OBSERVATIONS
