Date: December 29, 2006
Time: 0700--0930
Spot(s): 3Ds
Conditions: Swirling firm winds, drizzly
Swell: NW swell wraparound
Surf: 2-4'+ Haw'n

Words:

12/28/06: Gotta be really junky or sketchy for me *not* to surf. This morning was one of those days. At 6:15 AM at Ehukai Park, I was seriously debating a go-out (anyway, I didn't want to go back into morning traffic). But the conditions out on the NS was just plain lousy--rising nnw swell but 15-30 mph (at least) nne winds and rain. Oh well. Will try and save my spousal surf points and try again tomorrow morn.

12/29/06: Country was too big and unruly for me. Decided to head west. Think I made the right call. Inconsistent, cloudy, drizzly, but still fun. Initially, I had a peak all to myself (Buddy got some shots of me there). Moved over to another peak and shot from the water at bb friends Jacob, Brandon (sequence) and longboard charger Nalu Froseith (grandson of legendary surfer Wally Froseith). Sketchy on the inside, but exciting to shoot.

Aloha from Paradise,

 

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