Date: December 7, 2006
Time: 0630--0830
Spot(s): Inside-Outside PP's
Conditions: Confused
Swell: Big WNW swell
Surf: 3-5' Haw'n

Words: Pipe at 6 AM. Tossing, swirling winds, Third Reef cresting. Pass. Went to "Inside Outside PPs". Very crossed up swells there. Got a few small peaks on the sponge before I got mauled by a set--pushed me right near the rocks. Caught a long (small) one in--mostly whitewater ride. Rinsed off by the pavilion near the homeless folks. Got to work in decent time. Grinning.

Aloha from Paradise,

 

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