It was chunky, but fun

Date: August 5, 2006
Time: 0630--0800
Spot(s): Sandy Beach
Conditions: Patchy and choppy with firm sideshores
Swell: Inconsistent south with tradewind wrap
Surf: 3-4'+ Haw'n

Words: Missed most of the south swell that happened over the week. Such is life.

Went to Sandys early in the morn to hook up with some photo friends to talk some business. Ended up jumping into the challenging conditions, photo-slutting again.

Scored a few nice ones, but also took some pretty bad wipeouts. There was one where I got stuck in the lip, falling in a standup position. Felt so vulnerable as I went weightless and came down. Fortunately, wasn't so bad.

In the end I came out of the water with a restrained neck and shoulder. Was it worth it? Ask any surfer and they'll answer.

Aloha from Paradise,

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