SURF OBSERVATIONS
Shoulder Therapy -- 7/2/06


Too tempting

Date: July 2, 2006
Time: 0700--0930
Spot(s): Sandy Beach
Conditions: Clean and sunny
Swell: Tradewind swell with a bit of south
Surf: 2-3'+ Haw'n scale

Words: Shoulder still hurting despite some good therapy. Once again, the draw of the ocean was too much. Figured I do another photo shoot and avoid riding waves and possibly agrravating the injury.

Well, within the first few minutes of jumping in the water, my camera housing started fogging--a telltale sign that there was a leak. On top of that, the trigger button in the housing got stuck, making the camera constantly shoot. I had to get out fast.

Rushing back to my car, I was stoked to find that although there was water in the housing, the camera seemed to be fine. Decided to hang up the water photography for the day.

What the hell was I to do with my time now? Decided to use the toy Sony camera and take some shots. But our crew was having so much fun that I just had to partake in some of the action.

Against my better wisdom, I decided to chance it on the bodyboard.

Did pretty good, really, cautiously taking off on some fun ones at Gas Chambers. However, riding at Sandy's you are playing the odds, and eventually it'll get back at you.

Took off on a fairly innocuous looking double-up, but had a slightly harder time to drop into it. When I finally did, the wave had jacked too much. But I was already committed. Mid-air, I decided that I better bail and protect my injured shoulder. I let my board go and kind of tucked my left arm in. As I hit the very shallow water (with my left shoulder), I curled onto my back, and let the wave pick me up and toss me again.

Figured it was time to get out of the water--enough shoulder therapy.

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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