This surfer got pitched by the backwash

Date: June 12, 2006
Time: 0545--0615, 1530-1830
Spot(s): Pipeline
Conditions: Pretty darned good
Swell: Out of season wnw swell
Surf: 3-5' Haw'n scale

Words: bachi. Japanese word absorbed into the local Hawaiian dialect meaning a divine curse incurred as moral retribution. So I published this surfing article earlier in the month on growing old.

Then, this past Monday Hawaii gets hit with an out-of-season Country swell. I'm on it!

Was o ut before dawn. Backwash and low tide was making it very treacherous. Got drilled on my second wave, with the lip landing square across my shoulder blades. Next wave, got rolled and stepped on the reef. Proceeded to break my leash in the impact zone.

Obviously something or someone was consipiring against me. Decided to lick my wounds, and went in to work.

But the draw was too tempting. Got some liquid and waterproof bandages and patched myself up enough to jump in again. Went out in the late afternoon and sort of redeemed myself with a few good rides.

That evening, I was in pain with a strained shoulder. The axing I took in the morning was worse than I thought.

What you think? Bachi or what?

Aloha from Paradise,

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