SURF OBSERVATIONS
Thumped -- 10/14/05
Closeouts can be fun too
Date: Oct 14, 2005
Time: 0800--1000
Spot(s): RRs
Conditions: Sunny and offshore
Swell: Heavy north swell
Surf: 3-4+' Haw'n
Words: Absolutely thumping RRs, with mostly closeouts. But in between, there were some great waves to be had. Buddy and I were blowing our mind, since there were only one or two other guys with us through the entire session. Like, where was everybody?
Of course, we knew the reason. The surf was thumping. Not terribly big, but tough conditions. Got absolutely obliterated by a closeout that landed on my head. Also, got cut at the knees while going backside and am fairly certain I stretched/tore the MCL on my left leg. Auwe.
Aloha from Paradise,
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