An inside wave at Knoll's

Date: Sep 13, 2005
Time: 0745 -- 0845
Spot(s): Noll's Reef
Conditions: Funky with some nuggets
Swell: Sweet wnw (that looked more nnw)
Surf: 4-6' Haw'n

Words: The surfing community was abuzz with excitement. The first swell of the winter was coming, followed by what was being touted as the new Monster from Down Under (south).

But first, the Country. Being the opening swell, I knew that the sandbars would be all wrong. So I figured gotta go to a reefbreak that doesn’t typically get sand. Noll's Reef was the call.

As I was parking my car, a set wave closed out the channel. Whoah! Country power is so exhilarating!

Paddled out on my bodyboard, and battled the wicked current. Ho, the waves were pretty good. Reveled in the power, sketched when the closeout sets came, and gurgled when I got caught inside.

I've always contested that even a small Country swell rivals most any epic Town swell. I’m thinking the reason we get all hyped up for Town is that our familiar spots light up. On the eve of the biggest south swell of the summer, I was just stoked on the first winter swell.

Aloha from Paradise,

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