SURF OBSERVATIONS
Timeout -- 7/8/05
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Brian had no demerits
Date: July 8, 2005
Time: 0530--0830
Spot(s): the House
Conditions: Firm trades with the regulars
Swell: Rising south with typical trade
Surf: 2-3' Haw'n
Words: Surf was surprisingly fun, with the south swell starting to show along with some tradewind swell. Rode with Bud and LGZ. I personally had a terrible session--sluggish on the press up due some some funky nerves in my legs. I was so bad, in fact, blowing so many takeoffs, that I decided to relegate myself to the inside. Call it a self-imposed timeout. Maybe next time I'll behave better.
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Aloha from Paradise,
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