Grainy tube

Date: June 19, 2005
Time: 0530--0630; 0700--0900
Spot(s): Bowls and the House
Conditions: Light to firm trades with medium crowds
Swell: Decent south swell
Surf: 2-4' Haw'n

Words: Surfing is a powerful draw. Case in point. Despite my nagging pain in my neck and numbness in my back, probably due to surfing, I *strongly desired* to get in the water. Had extra motivation because my Mahi board came back from repair (great job by Jay Rush), I got some new twin fins from an Ebay win, and there was a decent south swell running. What would you do?

I decided to redeem some "Father's Day" points, especially since a south swell was expected. On a lark I decided to jump out at Ala Moana Bowls and chance it. I've never had much success out there, especially with the localized crew. But the winding, empty lefts that I saw in the dark were just too much to refuse.

Had my Mahi board again, this time with the twin fins. Caught one set wave that was fun. Rode it real tentatively, but "worked" it all the way to the inside. The crew there grew and it quickly became apparent that I wasn't going to catch anything else.

Worked my way in through Straight Outs, then proceeded to ding the fins on a coral head. F@rk!

Moved on to the House and surfed with Buddy. Fun stuff, but my pinched nerve started acting up big time. Caught a few nice ones though.

By the time I got to the Father's Day brunch, my neck was searing in pain. I started getting nauseated too. Combo stomach flu with pinched nerve left me on the sidewalk without eating a bite.

Man, I'm a crybaby. I got a few good waves. Can't complain. Just won't be back in the water for a while. OBTW, still down in the camera department too. Sigh.

Aloha from Paradise,

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