By the time I took this shot, it had become a little onshore and mushy

Date: April 30, 2005
Time: 0545--1000
Spot(s): PL/BD & OTW
Conditions: Incredibly glassy and fun
Swell: Good NNW with a hint of new WNW
Surf: 3-6' Haw'n

Words: First one out at Pipe. Enjoyed some silky emptiness while the crowd slowly filtered out. Waves were still pretty epic, with unbelievably smooth conditions.

After a while, the waves and sessions just kind of get blurred, losing distinction between rides and sessions. The one thing I do remember quite vividly about this session was that I got some absolute screamers with my bodyboard. On one at Backdoor, I don't recall ever going as fast before--just raced down the section, easily making it down to OTW. Once I got the board on rail (which admittedly was a bit tricky), the Custom X Vice board just flew.

Caught some fun ones at OTW although it was kind of closing out there. Had a spectacular wipeout where I didn't bottom turn quick enough and got demolished by the lip--must've looked hilarious from shore because I could feel myself cartwheeling in front of the wave after the impact.

Talked story with a few of the up and coming bodyboarders. Great to see that the future is in good hands.

As the day progressed, the crowd got maddeningly aggressive which frustrated me out of the water. Didn't matter because by then I had gotten my share.

Found Bernie Baker at Ehukai in a photo shoot with this kid named Kalani (pic at the bottom). He was doing well out in well-overhead surf for him, as his father pushed him into the waves. Bernie shocked me when he said that the kid was only seven years old. Talk about child prodigy.

Went home happy. The session kind of blurred afterwards with just memories and stoke.

Aloha from Paradise,

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