Me having fun!

Date: April 19, 2005
Time: 0815--1000
Spot(s): Pipeline/Backdoor
Conditions: Perfect!
Swell: Late-season WNW with a hint of north
Surf: 4-6' w/8s Haw'n

Words: Cleared the calendar and took some time off in anticipation of a mid-week, late season swell. I was not disappointed.

Surf was just going off under clear skies and light winds. Because of the wave size (and convenience of stashing the board during work), I chose to bodyboard. It was the right call for me. The waves were dredging somewhat at low tide, and most waves had a pretty critical takeoff. There was a bit of north coming in too, making for a little bit of peakiness.

Heard that the day before, Pipe was going off. I knew it was well beyond my meager skills, but I was envious nonetheless. However, my envy was quickly replaced by stoke.

I had one of those sessions that was just absolutely fun. I didn't catch the best waves of the winter for myself, but I was in rhythm and managed to get my share of waves in the laid-back, late-season crowd. The best way to describe it was that it was superfun.

Halfway through the session, the longboarders came out, including Dino Miranda. They proceeded to impress everyone, taking the place apart with their early takeoffs and technical skills. But even they paid the price of admission for surfing Pipe with some spectacular wipeouts.

My best wave was probably my last one. Backdoor was sweet, but most people weren't chancing it (I got a couple earlier in the sesh). However, this one set of peaks (vice walls) came through and I went for it. The wave peaked and I can recall looking down just at the takeoff, deciding to fully commit myself. As I went down the face, all I know is that it felt huge. I gently bottom-turned into the wall, but soon decided on prudence and straightened out. Fortunately, the wave gave me a lot of time to run ahead of it (especially since the reef looked to be only a couple-three feet under). Took a tumble, but it wasn't too bad.

Out of the water, I realized that I had spent less than two hours surfing. Although this was well below my standard surf session length, I felt fully satisfied with the amount and quality of waves caught.

Visited a couple of photographer friends who managed to catch me in action (see last six frames below). Stoked! Went to work with the high of my best session of the season.

Dino Miranda, charging

Aloha from Paradise,

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