Fun at the House

Date: Tax Day, 2005
Time: 1245--1415
Spot(s): The House
Conditions: Windy
Swell: Tradewind swell with a hint of south
Surf: 2-3+ Haw'n

Words: First time this year on the South Shore. I'm bumming. Although I hope to go back to the North Shore this season, I know that winter is fading fast.

Had a pretty bad session on the shortboard. Just could not seem to get in the groove.

I was having this really subtle "battle" with this really good guy. I was sitting away from the crowd, taking off deep. He was sitting a little inside of me, dropping in incessantly. But because I was blowing most of my takeoffs, I guess it was justified. If the tables were turned, I probably would be doing the same thing. It still pissed me off, making me more intense and competitive (and probably made me struggle more).

One one of my many takeoff-to-wipeouts, I slammed down hard, whiplashing my neck so hard I could hear and feel my cervical spine cracking right down the line. After an extended hold-down, I came up gingerly steadying my neck. Felt really tender at first, but amazingly it felt loose and

Still, I got a few turns in, and a lot of good exercise. Had to cut the session short to do some honeydo's.

Aloha from Paradise,

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