SURF OBSERVATIONSBisect Boards -- 3/6/05 Date: March 6, 2005
Words: Old friend John from San Diego was once again coming over, bringing his Pope Bisect longboard with him. I did an early morning reconaissance run to another spot, but decided our original target location would probably be the best. Turned out it was the right call. Although no one was in the water initially, the waves looked beautiful, with long, sectiony lefts pushing through. I was out there. Interestingly, there was a bunch of "native Hawaiian" looking folks gathering on the beach. I asked one of the photographers and he said it was a prayer to Lono to end the Makahiki season. Pretty neat. I acknowledged the lead kahuna and irreverently jumped in right in front of everyone. The floodgates opened soon after, as a lot of people followed suit and jumped in the water. Conditions were really nice with light offshores. The swell wasn't perfect, but it was still overhead on the sets. The lefts were long, but backed off on the inside. The rights were short, but more intense with a steeper wall. Initially, I had some problems with positioning since the waves didn't break the same place as when I first got there. However, eventually I got it a bit more wired. Caught some of my better rides going right. Unfortunately, on one right, I pulled into a semi-crumbling tube. Came up with half a longboard. F*(k! Actually, the board did have a couple of creases and I knew it was inevitable. Still, the loss was painful. Ran back up to the car and grabbed my bodyboard and fins just to get wet for the few more minutes I had before I had to zoom back to town. Shot a few more shots of the boys, got a couple of junky waves, and called it a day. Bummer that my board wanted to become just like John's board--bisected. Such is life.
r
Aloha from Paradise, 
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