Better than expected

Date: December 28, 2004
Time: 1400 -- 1645
Spot(s): Pipe/BD, Ehukai
Conditions: Gentle onshores
Swell: Small NW swell
Surf: 2-4' Haw'n

Words: Headed out for a rare afternoon session with Buddy and Rich. Small kine swell expected, but wanted to get some before the big bad weather system came through around New Year's Eve.

Traffic came to a dead stop about a half mile before Laniakea. What the? We eventually realized that the tourists were flocking the Laniakea area to enjoy the beach and probably the turtles that frequent the area. Wasted time.

Got to a very crowded Ehukai Beach Park. People on the beach; people in the water. As expected, NW swell was small with NW winds (onshore). Still, the sun was out, the water was an inviting blue. We were on it!

Rich and I decided to go out to Pipe first while Buddy headed straight for the sandbar. I had my shortboard (figuring it wouldn't be that intense). Well, Pipe and Backdoor was actually pretty good.

Caught a couple of nice ones, including a very late takeoff at Pipe (someone dropped in on me) and a really fast wall at Backdoor. Mike Stewart paddled out and immediately busted by balls that I was riding a stick. "I've been bodyboarding for two months solid," I retorted. We had a good laugh about it.

Rich snagged a couple of nice ones, including a nice left where he snapped in the pocket right in front of my face. We soon headed over to the sandbar to make sure Buddy wasn't getting into any trouble. Of course, he was doing just fine, snagging some barrels over the sandbar.

My session turned into a major kook session with me going over the falls on the takeoff on at least eight waves. Pretty hilarious, but still fun.

Aloha from Paradise,

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