The bully wipeout

Date: December 10, 2004
Time: 0830 -- 1030
Spot(s): Makaha
Conditions: Variable to firm offshores, a dozen or so locals spread out
Swell: Big north wrapping around to the Westside
Surf: 4-6+' Haw'n and soft

Words: The Country was being pounded by a big north swell coupled with stiff tradewinds. I headed west looking for something to ride.

The Westside was surprisingly small--guess the swell was swinging wide of the coast. Brought my longboard, so I settled in at Makaha, where the swell was decent, but overshooting the point. There were waves to be had in the middle, but they tended to mush out until they came inside. The lefts were looking good though.

I made my way out and focused on the lefts. Heard there was a contest coming on the weekend, but it didn't seem like there were any competitors practicing. Waves were inconsistent, but I did manage to dig my way into some fun left walls.

Buffalo and a couple of his friends came out with bullyboards, cruising in the lineup. One of his friends took off on a set that suddenly jacked, launching him while in the tube. He took the long swim in.

Aloha from Paradise,

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