SURF OBSERVATIONSIdiot Move -- 11/12/04 Date: November 12, 2004
Words: Went out with the Brewer gun to Rocky Rights. Tron was going out to take pictures and he was all jealous of my board. The crowd was pretty mental, with a lot of the North Shore underground crew out in front of the cameras. Having a longer board than most, I was able to snag a couple from the outside and rode them all the way through. Just so stoked! Had a nice chat with Randall Paulson, one of the heavies at Pipe who I used to pass jerseys to back in the amateur contest days. I asked him about the massive barrel he caught back in January, and he said he was still riding the high from that wave. What a trip to be so stoked on a single ride, but that's what surfing can do to you. Buddy was out there too and we reveled in the conditions despite the crowd. He tagged some really sweet rights. And we both were in awe with the ageless Michael Ho, who snuck into the best sets. I had a feeling something was going awry for me, and of course it did. I caught a wave to the inside that closed out. Took a tumble over the shallow shelf. When I came up, I decided to tug my leash to quickly retrieve my board. But for some reason, I didn't catch my board and it ended up conking me right in the face. Knew I drew a little blood so I went in. A surf photographer on the beach confirmed the cuts, but agreed with me that it was minor, so I made my way back out. However, the surf was kind of pounding by Rocky Lefts, and it took me several tries before making it back out. First thing back out, a small set came my way. Despite being tired I had to go. Pressing up, my hands slip off the deck and I only managed to get on my knees as the wave raced away down the line. Of course, Buddy saw the whole comedy. Lol! The swell sort of dwindled after that so I caught a few more then made my way in. Despite the bonk in the head it was a pretty neat session. Just being out there amongst all that talent was pretty inspiring, and catching a few was nice.
Aloha from Paradise, 
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