I'm not telling where

Date: September 28, 2004
Time: 0730--0845
Spot(s): somewhere south
Conditions: Light offshores, a half dozen longboarders
Swell: Yet another late-season south, somewhat inconsistent
Surf: 3-4' Haw'n

Words: I had to take advantage of the late-season south, so I jumped in for an hour before work. The spot I went to only pops at size, and the inconsistent nature of the wave didn't allow me many waves, especially amongst longboarders. But I did get a couple of nice ones--the open face allowed for some leisurely cutbacks; four to a wave. Great way to start the day.

Aloha from Paradise,

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