SURF OBSERVATIONS
One Heat -- 8/1/04


JB, working it

Date: July 24, 2004
Time: 0700 -- 1030
Spot(s): Kewalos
Conditions: Medium winds, exactly 7 guys out
Swell: Small ssw
Surf: 1-3' Haw'n

Words: Attended a post-funeral picnic so I couldn't really go out and surf. Found out from Makani that I was actually in a longboard contest at Kewalos and missed a heat on Saturday, and that I was in a final on Sunday.

So after playing around at the picnic in the morning, I decided to steal away and jump into my one heat. When I got there, I learned that there was a bit of a mix-up and I actually wasn't in the contest anymore. But because of a no-show (Mel Pu'u), I kind of snuck my way in anyway as the seventh man. Went out just to play around.

Surf was pretty small, but there were a few chest-high sets to be had for the patient. Unlike my previous contest experience, I decided to chase whatever I could find. Pretty cool because Makani was in my heat along with Jamie Ballenger, Tommy Chun Ming and a few others that I knew "by face." We were all pretty laid back in the 25 minute heat and wasn't too competitive.

I kooked as usual. Still not very adept at longboarding in a contest situation. Also, I've never cared for Kewalos. I did manage to catch one of the bigger sets of the heat, but played it super conservative and didn't do much on it. After the heat, I just ran away, returning to the picnic. Later on, Makani called to tell me I got sixth place and another tiki trophy. Surfing in just one heat was more than adequate.



Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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