SURF OBSERVATIONS
One Heat -- 8/1/04
JB, working it
Date: July 24, 2004
Time: 0700 -- 1030
Spot(s): Kewalos
Conditions: Medium winds, exactly 7 guys out
Swell: Small ssw
Surf: 1-3' Haw'n
Words: Attended a post-funeral picnic so I couldn't
really go out and surf. Found out from Makani that I was actually
in a longboard contest at Kewalos and missed a heat on Saturday, and
that I was in a final on Sunday.
So after playing around at the picnic in the morning,
I decided to steal away and jump into my one heat. When I got there,
I learned that there was a bit of a mix-up and I actually wasn't in
the contest anymore. But because of a no-show (Mel Pu'u), I kind of
snuck my way in anyway as the seventh man. Went out just to play around.
Surf was pretty small, but there were a few chest-high
sets to be had for the patient. Unlike my previous contest experience,
I decided to chase whatever I could find. Pretty cool because Makani
was in my heat along with Jamie Ballenger, Tommy Chun Ming and a few
others that I knew "by face." We were all pretty laid back in the
25 minute heat and wasn't too competitive.
I kooked as usual. Still not very adept at longboarding
in a contest situation. Also, I've never cared for Kewalos. I did
manage to catch one of the bigger sets of the heat, but played it
super conservative and didn't do much on it. After the heat, I just
ran away, returning to the picnic. Later on, Makani called to tell
me I got sixth place and another tiki trophy. Surfing in just one
heat was more than adequate.
Aloha from Paradise,
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