SURF OBSERVATIONS
Old Friends -- 7/9/04
It actually got steep at times
Date: July 9, 2004
Time: 0745 -- 1030
Spot(s): Kewalos
Conditions: Light winds, fairly light crowd
Swell: Somewhat consistent, but dying south
Surf: 1-2' Haw'n
Words: Had to have the car serviced, so decided to hit
the water for a few hours. Walked to Kewalos where there were remnants
of a dying southerly swell. Was stoked to find the lineup fairly empty.
Got a few fun ones, including one nice right that lined
up from the southwest. However, I came to the firm realization that
I just cannot get on the rail and commit to a hard turn. Need to work
on that.
Saw some old friends including: Len Barrow who had just
won the masters division at the USSF Nationals, Kainoa McGee who is
surfing Pipe more and more, Donald Fancher who is my daughter's classmate's
dad, and this guy from Puerto Rico who told me how La Chatarra got
its name (trash put on the beach by locals to protect their houses
from flooding).
When the really good locals came out, I couldn't get
a wave. Struggled on an inside one and went in to find my surfmobile
ready to go. Fun go-out at Kewalos.
Aloha from Paradise,
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