SURF OBSERVATIONS
Longer than Necessary -- 5/8/04
It was actually a decent day in Town
Date: May 8, 2004
Time: 0500 -- 0845
Spot(s): dhlh
Conditions: Dead calm turning light onshore; little
more crowded than usual
Swell: On and off consistency, straight south
Surf: 2-4'+ Haw'n
Words: Figured that there would be no swell so I decided
to bust out the tanker. Got there and it was chest-high and glassy.
Had some fun rides in the dark with the waves all to myself. Should've
brought the shortboard.
Solitude never lasts though. Crowd got pretty thick,
pretty fast. I didn't want to inadvertently hog the waves, so I decided
to move over to the next, inferior peak. Found it to be actually a
little better than it usually is. Missed some primo sets, but such
is life. Eventually, a half dozen found their way over to the peak
so I again go a bit flustered.
By then I had gotten my share so I decided to head through
the original lineup. Found it to be packed with a quite aggressive
crowd. I was fortunate to luck into a couple of inside double-ups
that made my day.
Might've overextended my session, but sometimes it's
OK to go longer than necessary.
Aloha from Paradise,
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