SURF OBSERVATIONSMay Day -- 5/1/04 Date: May 1, 2004
Words: Usually the coming of May means that the winter season is all pau. This time, it brought some epic waves for the locals lucky enough to partake. A low pressure system just NNE of the islands through a north swell our way. And we took full advantage of it. Although I was the first to paddle out, I actually miscalculated the sunrise. Could've gone out maybe a half hour earlier. Regardless, I was able to get a jump on the crowd and scored some really fun walls before it got crowded. Relatively short period swell (12 sec) with sweet, light wind conditions. A bit on the peaky side, but that helped keep the crowd at bay.
Still had some problems with the body, so I decided to use my other brand-spanking new board--a new Makani tanker. Worked really well for me--easy paddling, good turning, and even good noseriding. Need to continue to work out the nuances of the board, but it looks like another winner. The Budster and Rich and Kelly C. eventually joined the fun. Bud snagged a bowling peak early on to the chagrin of the gallery (everyone else wanted it) and he methodically worked it all the way inside. Rich was batting .000 for most of the session, but managed to snag a few at the end. If he had gone waveless, he wouldn't have heard the end of it from us. Kelly the bodyboarder was charging as usual, pulling into some round ones.
Surprised to also see Ushi, a friend from work, out in the lineup. He was an old-time charger who got back into it. He snagged some good ones too, with his 70s style. Although the swell was solid north, the peaks were sectioning quite distinctly. Forced me to do the long paddle-arounds after getting caught inside after a short ride from the outside peak. Eventually got into the groove though, even managing one ride all the way through. All in all, it was a pretty epic swell. Wish May was like this all the time.
Aloha from Paradise, 
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