SURF OBSERVATIONS
Bigger Waves on the Big Board -- 12/19/03
Me on the Tanker
Date: December 19, 2003
Time: 0830 -- 1030
Spot(s): Laniakea
Conditions: Glassy, with slight offshores; smaller than expected lineup
Swell: NE swell with a small NNW
Surf: 4-5' Haw'n
Words: Decided to longboard for a change. Was concerned
that a new swell would make it too big for me to ride the tank, but
it worked out. Swell came from a northeasterly direction, making for
easier takeoffs at Lani's.
I had a fun time, taking off on some really big waves
(for me). Caught one really good left backside that just opened up
nicely and funneled on the inside. Snagged some even better ones on
the rights, including a couple I rode all the way through the inside
and one set I lucked into from the outside.
As usual, there was some stellar riding going on by
the regulars. Inspiring for me to watch. Some guys make it look so
easy and effortless. Hope to one day be so skilled--in the meantime,
I'll enjoy pushing my limits.
|