SURF OBSERVATIONS
Sans a Leash -- 7/25/03
Bonga, practicing for the contest at Kewalos
Date: July 25, 2003
Time: 0745--0945
Spot(s): near Kewalos
Conditions: Light offshore trades, no crowd br>Swell: Small south
Surf: 1-2’ Haw’n
Words: Hadn’t surfed for a while; waves were small;
I had to try somewhere different. Ended up choosing Kewalos. When
I got to Panics, I found that I didn’t have a leash for the shortboard.
I’m still quite bad on the shortboard, but decided to chance um anyway.
A little swimming never hurt anyone.
Paddled out and found it to be pretty fun, with some
tiny wedges coming through mostly from the southeast. Surprised that
a lot of longboard pros were out in the marginal surf. Eventually
found out that a contest was about to begin. Bummers.
So I paddled over to the next peak over and ended up
having a pretty fun time. The rights were lining up quite nicely over
the shallow reef (with a coral head semi-sticking out to add a little
bit more excitement). An occasional left peeled sweetly right into
the contest zone.
In the short time that I was out, I got more than my
share of rides, catching some pretty fun stuff. I was being conservative,
not trying too many floaters (or what seemed to be floaters in my
naive mind).
My demise was this long left that I snagged that wedged
up on the inside. With a weak backside, I dug a rail after the wave
steepened unexpectedly. Made the long swim in and decided to check
out the contest.
Turned out to be the pro/am division of China’s event--guess
they had to start the contest on Friday if they had any hopes to finish
on the weekend in Waikiki. All my old friends were working and judging
the contest so it was nice renewing friendships.
After a while, I made the paddle back across the channel
and back out. It was a short go-out, but still heaps fun, especially
interesting because I went sans a leash.
Aloha from Paradise,
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