Longboarder with Diamond Head on the horizon

Date: July 11, 2003
Time: 0800--0930
Spot(s): Bowls
Conditions: Light offshore trades, longboard crowd
Swell: Tiny south swell
Surf: 1-2' Haw'n

Words: Had some time to kill so I jumped in the water. The supposed swell turned out to be another bust. Typical summer hype.

Decided to once again try the shortboard. I must've been flailing extra-plenty in the smallness because when I was on the inside this girl on a longboard told me to "paddle around" to get back out. Encouraging words, but I had to laugh to myself. I must've really looked kooky out there.

Disappointingly, the best wave was a thigh-high right that peeled with crystalline beauty. I had my hands full just staying on the weak wave. But it was still a pretty little wave.

Aloha from Paradise,

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