SURF OBSERVATIONS
Tom, gliding at Rocky's Date: February 2, 2003 Words: Had an afternoon surf with Keener and Bud out at Rocky Rights. More a talk-story session than a full-on waveriding affair. Used Buddy's digital cam in an Aquapac to shoot some water shots. My digital camera got deep-sixed because of a leak in my Aquapac bag--bummers. I did a rollo on a set wave and ended up wrapping my body around "the rock", sitting on it above the surface as the water receded. Must've looked hilarious from shore.
Aloha from Paradise, |