SURF OBSERVATIONS
Going Digital-- 10/26/02


Pretty pixels

Date: October 26, 2002
Time: 0530-0930
Spot(s): Pipeline/Backdoor and Laniakea
Conditions: Firm tradewinds (semi-sideshore) under overcast skies
Swell: Mixed wnw and nnw swells from weak, nearby lows
Surf: Pipe-- 3-5' Haw'n scale, Laniakea--2-4', both with somewhat jumbled conditions

Words: Just got a waterproof bag from Aquapac (London!) and tried it out with an old digital camera for the first time. Got to the beach real early and found the surf to be happening. Some surfers were cruising on the beach with a small fire, and I got a few shots of them. Stretched on the beach and found them getting ready to come in, so I rushed in at 5:30, with no light except for a small gibbous moon.

Had to feel my way down the first few, but it was so nice being out there with just a few guys. As the sun started rising, it again seemed that the surf came up with it. Of course, the crowd increased with it.

I did a little better this time, snagging a really good Backdoor tube. Pulled into a small set at Pipeline and got worked. Slowly rebuilding confidence.

The camera was at first awkward to use. Booting up the digital camera took time, and the camera trigger was right near the waterbag seal. After a while, I got the hang of it and managed to get a few shots. I'm excited with the prospect of getting immediate feedback from the surf photos. Looks like this will work out, as long as I don't wipe out too much and bang up the camera.

Moved on to Laniakea where I hooked up with Buddy and Rich already in the water. Surf was decidedly smaller there, and at a really bad westerly angle, shutting down the wave. Still, if you picked the right one, you could race it all the way through.

Buddy was again the star, one of the few snagging barrels, and scoring some sizable walls. Rich got some good backside waves, with big snaps throughout. I caught a few really fun ones, but actually spent a lot of time and effort caught inside. Super workout.

More digital shots:

Me at Laniakea (Bud foto)

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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