SURF OBSERVATIONS
Rave Review -- 9/2/02


Carve at D-head

Was I hearing something? As I walked down the trail at Diamond Head to the shoreline, I heard this thumping sound that matched my footsteps. I had to stop in my tracks to see if it was all in my mind. It wasn't.

Must be a couple of kids with a stereo on the beach, I surmised as I continued to saunter down the path. I soon realized that it was a bit more than that.

As I turned the last corner, I was surprised to find 30-40 kids in the shower area, with a full-on sound system with dual turntables pounding away. What the? These guys must've found a power outlet or brought their own generator and were having like a rave. I was tripping out. No wonder the parking lot was a bit more full than normal.

The kids were pretty docile, most of them sitting down listening to the music, with a few standing and bobbing (not really dancing) to the music. Didn't see any beer or drinks, but that doesn't mean there wasn't any. Looked like they were just trying to find a place to cruise.

I made my way carefully through the crowd, trying to avoid swiping one of them with my longboard tail. Stretched on the beach next to a couple of guys who were passed out on the sand, then paddled out as the morning light began to filter in.

Met up with of the usual dawn patrol Lighthouse crew. Most everybody knew everybody, and that made for an easygoing lineup.

Surf was smallish, but there were some fun ones to be had from a tiny south. Winds were fairly light, making for smooth conditions.

I had a fun time just cruising around, doing weak turns and pretend nose rides. I wasn't riding so hot, but was having fun nonetheless.

Eventually, I decided to bail and try and hook up with some friends in Waikiki. Uncoordinated and on a wing and a prayer, but was worth a shot.

Making my way to shore, I was pleasantly surprised to see that the ravers were pretty neat and didn't leave things trashed up. In fact, you would never have guessed that an hour prior there was a disco scene down there.

Drove over to Kapiolani Park and lucked into a stall near the Waikiki Aquarium. Checked out Publics, and saw the lineup absolutely empty. Guess I wasn't hooking up with my friends.

However, over at Castles, there were several longboarders out there sharing some nice waves. I was out there.


Glassy Castles

The surf was real clean and offshore, with a weak takeoff that came into some decent sections. The reef was pretty nuts, with boils and coral heads all over the place. On the inside, you had to literally weave around the jutting coral as you rode. Guess it kept the crowds down.

Met this local boy named Ronnie, who was the most stoked guy in the lineup, hooting for all of us (well, most of us). Got to talking to him--real cool guy with a great job as a videographer/cinematographer. He was riding one of those Realm boards from Thailand, and was working it very competently. For $239.99 and change, he made me rethink what I should buy.


Ronnie

As for me, I was having a fun time in the lineup. Sat real deep and tried to make it through a fast section. Got through a few times, didn't make some others. On one particularly ledgy one, I remember trying my darndest to find the right trim line, but drifted a little too high going backside. Ended up getting tossed at speed--must've looked pretty comical, but I had no shame. Just couldn't pull it off.


Fun stuff

One neat thing was that the annual Waikiki Roughwater Swim was happening at the canoe launch area while we were out, so we heard the pep talks and PA and staggered starts. Nice, calm day for them to go to the Ilikai.

Eventually found my way in. Looking back, the sessions were pretty fun and successful by most people's standards. Having a good time is what it's all about. The waves weren't all-time, but I still raved about them afterwards, especially the fun, exciting ones I got at Castles.

Aloha from Paradise,
stickman


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