SURF OBSERVATIONS Septuagenarians -- 7/14/02
Small surf was the call island wide. Sigh. Another Diamond Head day. Went out to Cliffs and actually had a reasonably fun time on my tanker. Having low expectations really makes even mediocre surf more enjoyable. Surf was mostly bellybutton-high. A couple of old friends (literally and figuratively) joined me in the lineup. John Cater, 70, who is spearheading the Diamond Head Parking initiative, came out with his ten foot board and orange helmet. He was soon followed by Gilbert Lum, who rides custom hydroplaning bellyboards. Gilbert is 77! It’s really refreshing watching these guys approach surfing with so much enthusiasm and stoke. It really was inspiring sharing the lineup with these guys. Think these septuagenarians found the fountain of youth that is surfing.
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