A small set at the outside peak

I had a full day on Sunday, and had to come home by 8 AM. I decided to hit one of our secret spots that requires a one mile walk and fifteen minute paddle to get to. That meant I had to start extra early. The full crew was coming, but I wasn't sure when they'd arrive.

Paddled out at first light to some sweet head-high rollers. It was a bit choppy, but the lefts were especially lining up nicely.

After months of sitting in my house, I decided to pull out the old longboard. The creases and cracks are very pronounced, but it was doing no good getting dusty and staying unused.

It was a good call. The board worked fine. I took a little bit of time to get reacquainted to standing on resin, but, just like riding a bicycle, it came back real fast.

Caught some really long lefts going backside. Tried some carves and noserides on the warping walls, and had a great time. But time was short, and soon I had to leave.

I had to half-jog back, but I made it to the shore in time. Of course, that's where I met up with the crew--Makani, Buddy and Rich. They were just about to embark on the long walk out.

I gave them the scoops on the conditions, and promptly zoomed off on home, just before 8. Brisk walk; brisk surf; brisk walk back. Worth it!

Aloha from Paradise,