SURF OBSERVATIONSPhoto-sitter -- 5/5/02
Since I missed out on the swell, I decided to go again on Sunday afternoon. Assuming that my daughter would say no, I asked her if she wanted to go to the beach. To my surprise, she said yes! Oh well. I couldn't leave her alone on the beach, so I decided that to sit on the beach and take pictures instead. Turned out to be not too bad a deal.
We talked story for a while, catching up on old times. He's been in and out of the water, mostly out given the poor winter we had. However, Doug was taking advantage of the early Town action with the rest of us.
The surf was pretty good, and the crowd was big accordingly. Most people were sitting deep at the eastern peak, but there were a few on the shoulder, waiting for "Da Bowl" to show. I split my time between playing with my daughter in the sand and running to the camera to shoot some wave action. Taryn and I had a fun time just cruising on the beach between sets. And the sets, man they were sweet. I actually didn't feel to bad about not being out there because I knew that it would be impossible for me to catch any waves in that crowd.
After getting some decent shots, we decided to fold up shop and head home. It was nice hanging at the beach with Taryn, especially (or despite) when the surf was so nice.  Committed snap
Aloha from Paradise,
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Checked Point Panic first to get the lay of the land. The bodysurfers were having a field day in the inconsistent, yet solid south swell. I took just one photo there, but it happened to be of an old friend, Makaha bodysurfer and former alt.surfer Doug Frick.
Anyway, Taryn and I moved on to Magic Island to get a gander at Bowls. I found a good spot to park my tripod, staying close to the sandy loch for my daughter.
When its on, the Bowl is a beautiful sight to see. It just sets up so nicely that the surfer seems to just stall to get fully pitted out of their nut. I know that there's a lot more skill to it, but I can dream, can't I?
