Buddy, near the middle peak

The first solid swell of the summer was scheduled to arrive on Friday and I wanted to be on it. Drove out to the Westside and met up with Buddy and Rich at this semi-famous point break.

The surf was looking pretty decent despite the wind starting to turn sideshore. We were out there.

Of course, the wave gods were teasing us, because by the time we got out there, the surf seemed to diminish substantially. Those five footers (Haw'n) that we saw from shore never came while we were out. Still, we made the most of it despite the conditions.

Walled up

I chose to sit deep and try and race around the middle peak for a long ride. It was really hard to connect. However, some waves ended up wrapping around the reef, affording a weak wall that you had to cut back on constantly. Rich stayed mostly at the middle peak while Buddy ping-ponged between the two.

No exceptional rides to speak of. It was nice taking a few hours before work to get wet, but I'd be lying if I said I wasn't disappointed at the lower than expected wave quality. Such is life.

Aloha from Paradise,