SURF OBSERVATIONS
Eighty Percent -- 3/3/02
Buddy, charging from behind the peak
Was feeling run-down from some sort of ailment that I got mid-week. I felt tired, with maybe 80% of my strength available. Still had to get my water time, for nothing else than to keep the joints from freezing up.
Conditions were beautiful out at Lani's, with sunny skies and blue seas. Waves were in the 3-5' (Haw'n) range, but sectiony in the usual places. How could I not go out?
Because of my condition, I didn't have the greatest of sessions. But still I got a few gems, including one racy wall just as Buddy paddled out.
The Budster, on the other hand, was taking off on some ledgy ones. He always puts himself into such critical positioning. Da buggah charges.
I just wasn't on it, so I decided to cut my sesh off early. Feeling 80%; riding 80%; wave count 80%; time out 80%.
Buddy, on the bottom
Unknown, taking off on the inside
Middle peak bottom turn
Aloha from Paradise,
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