A 43" Day -- 2/10/02
Wifey gave me the green light for another round of surfing, so I made another predawn patrol. Surf was much better at Laniakea, with the swell swinging in from the north-northeast. It was still very big, with some solid eight footers (Haw'n).
Surprisingly, two surfers beat me to the punch as far as breaking the ice in the water. I'm so used to being the first in the lineup that I really felt like a Johnny-come-lately.
As soon as I paddled to the outside, a big peak reared up right in front of me. I whipped around and skittered down the face, doing a wide turn and going full trim to the middle peak. Yeah!!!
I got really lucky and followed this up with some really fun ones, just flying down the line. I knew there would be a bit of wind, so I brought my stiffer, Mike Stewart E6 proto board. It worked to perfection, allowing me to slice through the small chop and hold trim on the big faces.
One guy complimented me on my rides and I was flattered. He asked me how long my board was and I told him 43". He was like, "It's not like you (bodyboarders) can say, 'I think it's a 43" day.'" I laughed, agreeing that I usually just ride one board for all conditions (although this board was an inch longer than my normal ride). He was surfing on his 8'6".
Buddy soon came out on his micro 6'3" board and proceeded to charge the outside peaks, somehow throwing himself over the precipice and making it down the line.
The very same guy who talked to me earlier was marveling that Buddy could ride the big surf on such a small board. Todd, a local guy, answered, "Oh yeah, Buddy, he's unreal." I couldn’t have said it any better.
I continued on my lucky streak, snagging some really great rides. I was surprisingly comfortable in the surf--think the acute swell angle helped make the waves more open and the takeoffs less critical.
One wave stood out in my mind where I took off on the outside peak and just turned on the juice, holding trim. I bounced around in the small chop, but maintained a good edge, coming around two bowl sections before launching a small aerial on the inside. It was very nice!
I came in just glowing after a fun session. Got some really good waves and didn't go through the rinse cycle much. Damn, I love those 43" days.
Aloha from Paradise,