SURF OBSERVATIONS
Unzipped -- 1/19/02
Buddy, setting it up at Lani's
Coming back from San Diego, I was looking for some juice to reenergize my spirits. Didn't get it. Surf was overhead, but the strong trades were slicing and dicing the waves to pieces.
Headed out to Gas Chambers for some early morning surf and found myself alone in the tossing sea. Caught a few down-the-line rides on my bodyboard, but it was bumpy and all over the place.
The windy conditions warranted me using my shortie, and I was glad I did. However, I've recently had some equipment failure, with the shoulder zipper becoming undone at times. I had a rash guard over it, using it for my water cam setup, but it still became undone during one especially rough tumble. Frustrating!
Suddenly, I saw this dude waving at me from the beach. Buddy! I shot straight in and we decided that Laniakea might be a better call. So we upped and headed west.
Laniakea lacked much in the juice of Chambers, but the walls lined up way better, allowing for some long trims. Today it was just totally different waves that necessitated different approaches.
I actually got a few fun ones before my suit gave way again and forced me to play buoy while I tried zipping my suit back up. Very frustrating to waste my time like that in the water.
It was a satisfying surf, but the equipment failure put a damper on it. Guess it's time for a new shortie.
Aloha from Paradise,
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