Bouncing at Makaha -- 12/27/01
Country was expecting to hit 20', so I headed west. Drove all the way out to the end of the road, but got denied by a locked gate at Yokes (as Bud was on the day before).
Turned around and ended up heading out at Makaha. No one was out yet at 8, so I was stoked to be the first to paddle out. Waves were about five feet Haw'n on the sets, but the slight onshore winds made for crumbly, choppy conditions.
I immediately went out to the outside peak and snagged some bumpy, bouncing peaks. The waves backed off big time on the outside, so I had to continuously had to cutback into the soup. However, when the waves hit the far inside section, it walled up nicely for a short, carving section into the shorebreak.
Riding it all the way in resulted in maybe a 200+ yard ride, with a ten minute paddle back out to the outside lineup. A bit tiresome, but good training.
Eventually, more and more people came out, but most were strung out along the inside peel line. I didn't mind one bit.
Not much in the way of waveriding technique done, but it was good to get wet and get some exercise under my belt.
Aloha from Paradise,