SURF OBSERVATIONS
Seal of Approval -- 4/20/01
Check the guy getting pinched and the double-up
Had a couple of hours so I decided to make a beach run. Surf was small all over, so I figured the good old tradewind swell would allow for some bodywhomping action at Sandy Beach.
Got there at 8 and was somewhat disappointed looking at the head-high semi-mush, semi-tubes. Jumped in anyway just for the exercise.
I don't really care for shorebreak bodyboarding anymore. It takes a certain mindset to hurl your body over the edge, knowing that you will take doughnuts no matter what. I think in my "old age" I'm getting more selective and cautious.
However, the session turned into a great one, with me catching some really nice little tubes. I felt confident and in control, despite my concern about landing on my achilles during the tumbles. No maneuvers on my part--just pulled in and enjoyed the view.
Later on, I was cruising in the parking lot with videographer D.B. Dunlap. He was on "seal watch" looking for a couple of rare Hawaiian monk seals that were coming in the past few days.
Suddenly, there was some serious commotion near the Gas Chambers area. A monk seal had beached himself and a crowd was quickly gathering around him.
We went over, keeping a respective distance. Really cool seeing a fellow ocean-going pal. Soon afterwards, I had to run. It was a good day.
The Shorebreak Seal
Aloha from Paradise,
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