| SURF OBSERVATIONS|
Scavengers -- 6/19/99
Saturday didn't look so hot for surf, but our intrepid crew (sans brother Rich) was game regardless. We all met up at Jimmylands, just in case the small south materialized at dawn--it didn't. So we headed east to our backup spot, P-Rock.
Makani suggested we check out a nearby break called N-Beach that had very sketchy parking. It was very small, but fairly clean, so we went for it.
I've never surfed there before, so I looked forward to the surf with my tanker. Buddy and Makani had caught this place very good many times before, but were still eager to get wet.
It was strange scene overhead with a whole flock of black "iwa" birds circling over the break. It felt like vultures were waiting to swoop on some dying beast.
One surfer and his girlfriend bodyboarder jumped in just ahead of us, and pounced on the best peak. Out of respect, we started at the inferior, adjacent peak.
Surf was mostly waist-high, with an odd chest high mondo wave. Winds were moderately onshore, with a few moments of glass. Waves of rain squalls pelted us in the beginning, but eased off as the session progressed.
After a while, we gravitated over to the good peak and we scared the couple away--not on purpose, of course. For the rest of the session, we were the only souls on the beach.
Buddy and Makani were on it as usual, snapping their puny potato chip sticks all over the place. Gutless surf never looked so good. Buddy got some major snaps, and Makani launched some out of control airs (didn't make ‘em, though).
Me, I was having an awkwardly fun sesh on my longboard. The lefts (my backside) were better, but their small size made it difficult for me to do anything but look like an adolescent who had lost all coordination. Still, I was having fun with it... trying.
Suddenly, Buddy shouted, "Eh sponge, get off your board--let's trade." I have never gotten into riding a shortboard, but I was game. Maybe Buddy sensed my strain and my need for a change.
Man, his board was small! I outweigh Buddy by at least 25 pounds (more like 30), and sitting on the board, with water all the way up to my chest, all I could think of was how overweight I was.
Buddy adapted well, drawing a nice line on my tank. I saw him playing statue, just trimming through the short sections. I know he hadn't surfed on a log much in his childhood, but he must've been watching them Makaha rippah's.
Me, well just getting into the waves was challenging, but I managed to squeak into a few. Once on the board, it felt like I was riding a short skateboard with loose trucks--just so squirrelly. It was not at all like longboarding--it was like I was slicing the waves with a sharp knife. But I was having fun!
Later on, I offered my tank to Makani. Man, you shoulda seen him ride that thing. Mr. Stylemaster made the piddly waves look totally rippable, doing his carves and switch-stances. I think Makani was born with style.
After playing for almost three hours, we decided to finally call it quits. Makani's truck was unmolested. However, I mysteriously lost the screw holding my tail fin in the block. So that's why I couldn't rip. :-)
We each had our after-surf meal: Buddy gnawed at a Powerbar, I drank Gatorade, and Makani scarfed a whole mango. Leaving all the skin behind in the parking lot, I jokingly told him not to worry about littering. "The mynah birds love to eat mangos."
As we were driving away, over a dozen mynahs swooped down to feast on the leftovers. I guess we are all scavengers sometimes, taking whatever we can get.