SURF OBSERVATIONS
For Da Hulk's Dad -- 11/7/98

Posted to the alt.surfing newsgroup:

Stephen Hull wrote:
>I've been too busy to participate much the past few months. The events
>responsible for this unhappy circumstance have been more personal than
>work or surf related.
(snip)
>
http://planning.ucsc.edu/irps/dwh/swh_home/surf/coma.htm

One of the most touching writeups I've ever read. Be strong, Steph. Tell your dad we're all pulling for him. Tell him we'll catch one for him too.

Aloha, Neal


For Da Hulk’s Dad

Chris "WonTon" Taloa and I both saw the sneaker wave coming and stroked for it simultaneously. I knew he would have a hard time catching it without fins--I was in better position anyway--so I called, "You going,Chris?"

"Going Neal!" was his response. I was on it.

Took off on a nice, head-high wave at Backdoor, just swooping down into a long section. From the start, there was no chance of making it all the way to the shoulder, but I went for it anyway. Pulled into a beautiful cylinder and drove as far as I could. The wall was as smooth as silk, and the reef was plainly visible in the afternoon light. The wave started to shut down, compressing the tube and throwing turbulence everywhere. I bailed my board and deftly dove throught the face, sneaking out the back. Paddled back for more.

sponge
stickman


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