 SURF OBSERVATIONSCaught in the Act -- 2/25/98
Zoomed out to the North Shore for a pre-work session. Ushi was a no-show, but I hooked up with a Brazilian pro sponge chick; Claudia, I think. Surf was about 1-3' (Haw'n), with glassy conditions. It was especially good because there was no crowds to speak of at all.
My old compadre Reid Inouye was on the beach trying to run the HIC Pipeline Pro--they postponed in hopes of better waves the next day. Took some quick shots, then hightailed it to work just in time. It was truly refreshing to jump in the water for even a short session. I felt relaxed and primed for my work day. I think it would boost morale big time if we all had pre-work surfs. Hey, I can dream, can't I? Epilogue For a limited time, Surfcheck.com provided free access to their website to all alt.surfing newsgroup readers. Surf Check has scouts around the Western Pacific rim taking stills of popular surf spots daily, then uploading them for their subscribers to drool over. Just for fun, I decided to take a look at their Pipeline page, when lo and behold, I found a picture of me! Looks like my last wave of the day--my small kine tube. I hope my boss doesn't have a subscription...
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Caught some fun ones at Off-the-Wall and Backdoor, but couldn't make it out of the barrel. Of course, just as I had to catch a last wave in, a long lull hit. Finally, I lucked into a cute tube ride at Inside Pipe, punching through at the end. Bodyboarding is great that way--it's almost always big enough to get shacked. Less than an hour in the water, but a decent workout nonetheless.
