SURF OBSERVATIONS
Short Story -- 10/26/97
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Jerry, charging
Who: Jerry and I
What: bodyboarded
Where: North Shore
When: between swells
Weather was marginal, with some rain squalls. Surf in the 2-4' feet range, mostly from the north. Rode Off-the-Wall and Insanities only. Long waits, growing crowds, but decent waves. I got cold really quickly. Jerr and I traded off time behind camera. He's pushing himself more and more. For some reason, I just couldn't get into the session. Ended up sitting on the beach in the rain. Went home, had lunch with the wife and family, felt whole again.
If a picture is worth a thousand words, how much are six worth? Enjoy.
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Insanities was in fine form
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Jerry again, in good trim
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That's me, T-minus 4 seconds before launch time
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Me again, showing off my "sweet okole"
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Somewhere in there is Jerry, pushing himself over the ledge.
He got in the barrel, then got donuts (not Krispy Kremes).
Soft focus by me--it was raining, I was cold...
Aloha from Paradise,
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