Winter is here!

Date: September 19, 2010
Time: Dawn
Spot(s): Pipeline
Conditions: Not perfect
Swell: Little messy NNW
Surf: 2-4' Haw'n

Words: The first swell of the winter is always met with much anticipation, but this one more than most. This past summer was one of the worst on record, with very little south swell of any consequence to speak of. But this NNW swell represented a new beginning.

Bodyboarded PL/BD as the sun rose. There were some overhead waves, but it wasn't huge. The beach was big, with lots of sand built up from the summer, so backwash was the order of the day.

Surf was a bit inconsistent, but still really fun. Yes there were crowds, but it was mellow compared to mid-winter madness.

I cautiously caught a few faces, then went inside. At the shorebreak, a side wave nailed me, twisting my neck. Could hear all the vertebrae popping like knuckes. Welcome back to the Country.

Swam out and shot some before making the Kilani Bakery stop before heading home. Hope you like.

Aloha from Paradise,

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