Oily smooth

Date: December 30, 2009
Time: Morning
Spot(s): BD/PL/OTW
Conditions: Sweet!
Swell: WNW
Surf: 3-5' Haw'n

Words: Weather was very suspect, with a front destabilizing local conditions. Winds were variable, sometimes coming from the west (bad for the NS). It was totally overcast and gray with a bit of drizzle. As for the surf, we were in a nadir between two swells, so surf was relatively small.

Regardless of all that, I cherished getting out into the water. It was therapeutic for the mind, body, and spirit. It was also necessary for me to go back to the scene of my injury--back to OTW.

Even in challenging conditions, there are always opportunities for surf photos. After all, we don't always partake in our surfing experience in frontlit offshore conditions. Took the fisheye out and tried getting a little creative.

Local shaper Wade Tokoro seems to always be out wheneve I go out to Pipeline. He is highly respected not just as a shaper but as an underground Pipe charger.

Aloha from Paradise,

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