Very close call

Date: October 6, 2009
Time: Morning
Spot(s): Rocky Rights
Conditions: Clean and clear
Swell: NW
Surf: 2-3' Haw'n

Words: Knew the surf was going to be small so I tried out my new goggles to get some fresh perspectives. Settled in at RR's.

Supercalm winds, hazy but cloudless skies, and clean waves were the order of the day. Jumping in however, I quickly realized that the water wasn't all that clear, with lots of particles floating around. Oh well.

Had fun shooting above and below the water. Waves were a bit bigger than I expected so that's always nice (mostly around chest-high). Not much exercise, but it was so liberating cruising in the lineups.

Saw Jay Adams. He always intimidated me. I said howzit and we struck up a (very) small kine conversation. He was also marveling at the clean conditions and was contemplating getting his goggles to check out the beauty from below. And yes, that's exactly what he did--came out to enjoy the view.

The only time I don't mind crowds coming out is when I'm shooting. Had a bunch of mini groms and grommettes who brought their exuberance to the water.

Mixed success with the photos, but refreshing nonetheless. Surf to rise into the weekend. <drool!>

Aloha from Paradise,

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