Another great day

Date: February 23, 2009
Time: Morning
Spot(s): Pipeline
Conditions: A bit scary
Swell: NW
Surf: 6-10+' Haw'n

Words: Turbo bodyboard contest was on again, day 2 of 3. Swell was way bigger than I expected it to be. Combo swells plus moderate NE trades made for some not-so-ideal conditions. I literally stood on the sand for like 20-25 minutes as Third Reefers poured in, before chancing the paddle out (getting more careful nowadays). Though conditions were a bit disheveled, as usual there were moments.

Aloha from Paradise,

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